It's a name that evokes images of cowboys, which it should. It's a cowboy movie set in Cochise County, in the San Pedro valley north of Benson. We wondered whether Gammons Gulch could have been the Xanadu of the Southwest movie locations, the El Dorado where Dirty Little Billy was filmed in 1971, with appearances (if precious little acting) by Michael J. Pollard, but starring our dramatic and theatrical hero and movie producer, Richard Evans.
You need a reservation to visit the site, which we had. I wasn't expecting much at all, but it was something to do on a Sunday morning. The drive is nice. Perhaps because of the low bar I had set, but most likely because of the place itself and its curator, the tour turned out to be a fascinating immersion into Americana of the Wild West cowboy variety.
The force behind Gammons Gulch is Jay Gammons. The world is always a better place because of eccentrics, and Jay is a good natured, talkative eccentric who has managed to construct enough buildings (salvaging material from century-old houses in Benson slated for demolition) and collected enough memorabilia to recreate and furnish a small Western town.
Inside the blacksmith's shop. |
Even ad-libbing. For example, there were some young kids setting up staging for a shoot the following day. "Young kids" means minimum wage college grads, I expect. Jay explained they were making a movie called Aurora, then joked that it sounded like it was about toilet paper. It was a fresh joke for Jay, so he used it three times in the hour or more as we listened to him explain the buildings, memorabilia, Hollywood actors and producers, his going-to-town (that's Benson) car, and his former wife.
Wall of fame inside the saloon. |
(Watching the recent Tom Cruise-vehicle, Mission Impossible, and gazing at minutes and minutes of rolling credits at the end, I wondered how many got paid or just got the small font credit. I also wondered whether the young folk setting up for Aurora were getting paid.)
Square pole; take down the cross and church converts to school-house. |
The stuff that Jay has collected over the years is a true museum collection. He doesn't believe in fake replicas and he scorns the amusement park that Tombstone has become. He has Edison light bulbs about a century old and worth over a hundred dollars a piece. I couldn't believe that he turned them on for the tour! Old radios and typewriters, giant horseshoes, blacksmithing and mining equipment, a rare square telegraph line pole, vintage cars, and enough vintage bottles and cans to fill a general store.
What serves as a hotel facade is also the residence of Jay and his wife Joanne. |
He not only knows a little banjo, he also played the old piano in the saloon. |
The good news is that our tour was way more interesting than any of us had expected. The letdown was that Little Dirty Billy wasn't shot at Gammons Gulch but at another nearby set run by the "Old Tucson" folk and known as Mescal. Trouble is, Mescal is so run down that the place is closed and people can't visit.
Sorry, Richard, our pilgrimage to the scene of your acting tour de force remains unrequited.